Cuvée 1983 2023 Skin contact a real chalky grip through

a real chalky grip through the middle

among the highest Syrah vineyards anywhere

unfiltered

and in the right hands produces something genuinely worth paying attention to: a white with body

Quarts de Gastines is one of Pierre Ménard's dry Chenin parcels in Faye d'Anjou

Cuvée 1983 2023 Skin contact a real chalky grip throughPupillin is Ploussard country, and Jean Michel and Laurence Petit make two versions of it. This is the old vine bottling, off a plot planted in 1983, and it carries more concentration than their standard cuve without ever turning heavy. Ploussard pours so pale it could be mistaken for a dark ros, then delivers a good deal more than the colour suggests. Redcurrant and dried rose, a dusty earthiness underneath, and tannins you register as texture rather